Peru: Part 2 of 3 - The Way to Machu Picchu - Lares Trek Reflections

I went through the Lares Trek route. I signed up for Inca Trail but all the permits were sold out. I was initially bummed but it turned out to be a blessing in disguise because the Lares Trek was so beautiful and off the beaten path. There were hardly any other trekkers.


The good or bad, however you want to look at it is, you only trek for 3 days and on the 4th night, you stay in Aguas Caliente, the city that everybody else who just flew/railed in from Cusco. With Lares Trek, you get to experience both sides but you are still getting the full experience.

First Stop

Our first stop was at a traditional Inca family/village. We farmed with them, participated in their traditional blessing of the crops, they danced for us and cooked cuy for us. I can now say I ate a guinea pig! :P

What happy village people! :)

Here is a short video of the traditional dance the children put for us. It is a dance of driving out the evil spirits by the powerful Inca children! :)

I would've added some other videos but they were so shaky. I didn't want to make you guys nauseous.

Ollantaytambo

Our next stop was the city of Ollantaytambo. I don't remember the historical or cultural importance of it. What I do remember is being scared the CRAP out of my mind because we were casually hiking up a steep cliff/hill to get to the top. I couldn't stop being scared because there wasn't much floor space once we stopped for the view. I have a terrible case of acrophobia!

But it was beautiful.

I remember while I was in relatively new hiking shoes and worrying about slipping, our guide was in worn out Sketcher mule sneakers (the kind that doesn't have a back heel support) and kicking our asses.

We stayed in hotel/hostels to start our trek the next day.

Beginning the trek... off to a rough start

We almost didn't make it. The roads were closed and one person got majorly sick. We left really early in the morning because our guide knew that the main road to drop us off at the starting point closed at 6am or some ridiculously early time like that. Well, we made it on time but they closed the road ANYWAY! The reason they closed the road? they were going to explode parts of the mountain with dynamite!!! I was conflicted.

After waiting maybe 4-5 hours for our guide and driver to negotiate with the government, we were allowed to pass. The roads were crazy to drive through, especially hearing the explosions go off in a distance.

Additionally, one of our funniest guys got very sick. Unfortunately, it could've been prevented by heeding our guide's warning. Don't drink TOO much of the Chicha. It was to the point that he was drunk during the crop blessing ceremony at the village. I was bummed because he was the funnest and funniest guy in our group.

Mineral Spa

Our guides began our trek with a day at the mineral hot springs. We had to pay for our entrance fee to the mineral springs. It was ok. It was already hot outside and the waters were hot. I wouldn't do it again but the group camaraderie was good.

Trail

So we started our journey. The trails were pretty clean (as you can see the picture with our mules carrying our tents and sleeping bags). There were parts of the road that got rockier but the roads are still very clean and manageable.

Tip: Don't bring too much crap

I'm an overpacker. I think of the littlest thing and feel the need to bring it. I purchased a huge 60 liter backpack and paid lots of money because it only weighed 3lbs for the size. Didn't need it.

I could've brought a small jansport backpack from high school because all you need is sunscreen, maybe a light jacket, headlamps, camera, and water.
I was carrying extra batteries, solar charging devices, and so many other things that I did not need. I paid for it because 20 lbs feels like 60 lbs when you're in high altitude and doing something like this for the first time.

Tip: Pay for photos with the locals

Be prepared to pay for photos with kids and ladies dressed up in the traditional dresses. This one cost me $1. It's nothing for me but goes a long way for them. But don't be shocked when they ask for money after you snapped your pic.

Lomo Saltado at 12/13,000 ft above sea level: AMAZING

The porters and cooks are amazing people. They strap massive packs and run past you in$3 sandals. They set up your tents, chop up all the food, cook the food, serve to you food, clean-up and wash all the dishes! SERVICE!

Technically I guess you're paying for it but it's nice not to have to pack your food, cook it yourself in the dark, etc.

Dining in the tents

Here is a picture of what it's like to eat in the tent with our guide and assistant guidette :)

Suggestion/Tip: Bring small toys/gifts/pencils

The kids are going to ask for hands out anyway. Might as well bring something useful like pencils and small toys.
Message relayed: Please don't bring candy. They don't have healthcare/ dental care. If they get cavities, who knows what they have to do.

High Altitude Hiking/Walking
Unless you live in Colorado, next to the 14'ers, walking might be hard. I remember checking my heart beat and it was probably over 200 bpm. I walked super snail's pace slow but it was seriously the fast I could walk. But remember the most important thing: It's not a race. The assistant guide stays with the slowest person in the group. Even if it means you reach the tents hours later than everybody else, they won't leave you or rush you. Enjoy the experience and the scenery!

People recommend Diamox (need a prescription from your doctor). I didn't use it for Peru and I was fine.

We made it to the top. Pachacutec Lake. 4,500m/ 14,763 ft above sea level

Sleeping Arrangements

If you came on your own, you were paired with someone of the same gender. If you were an odd number, you got lucky and a tent all to yourself!


Descending Downhill

If there is any take-away from this blog, it's that you should bring trekking poles (or rent them). You're ascending thousands of feet. You also need to descend back. Going up may be hard on your thighs and butt but going down will kill your knees. I rented one trekking pole. Saved my knees!

 Another amazing dish by they cooks on our third night

On our way back down, we visited a school and gave them pencils and school supplies. There are ample opportunities for charity :)

This dog followed us for miles and miles. I was so unbelievably sad to hear and see so many stray dogs. I asked our guide why and the country can't afford to neuter/spay dogs/cats so they multiply and fend for themselves. The people don't really care for stray animals :(




It was the end for our guide, porters, and cooks. They cooked us an amazing farewell lunch. I can't remember how much we tipped but they were happy. It's customary to tip. I was surely grateful to the porters and cooks who did all the heavy lifting so I could enjoy the trip.

Inca Rail

On the last day, we were provided tickets to the Inca Rail to head to Aguas Caliente. I believe this might be the same train route non-trekkers take.

We got to see beautiful terraces while riding by. I think you might pass by more scenery like this on the actual Inca Trail.

Here's what it looks like inside the train. COMFY!

Aguas Caliente

It's actually a busy little town. There are many shops, places to eat and drink, internet cafes.

All I remember is being in the shower for 2 hours! 3 days was the longest I had gone without showering. It was glorious.

I developed this massive water blister from my boots.
I didn't know what to do at the time. I never had a blister before. Apparently you need to pop it. Sterilize it of course and then make sure you have a bandage to minimize infection. I brought a small hotel sewing kit that had a pin. It worked out well.

I would recommend sock liners. They are supposed to help prevent blisters but I think my shoes were the right size. I'm sure if I didn't have liners, my feet would have been more screwed up.

Well, I went to sleep and woke up the next day for Machu Picchu! In fact, I'm going to sleep now. Good night everybody!